When Adam Frost premiered his SS24 collection “Art is Abundance “at London Fashion Week last September, Broke Magazine were delighted to be included on the guest list for a show that was a celebration of inclusivity and queer culture. A show that played host to an audience drawn from that community and whose fabulous flamboyance was perfectly juxtaposed by the starkness of the East London former railway arch location.
It was a collection inspired by the muses who have influenced Adam in both his life and work. Muses who have inspired his passion for art and music, the disciplines that he draws from to create designs which while imbued with unapologetic escapism also draw from the gritty realism of growing up in South East London and the personal struggles that he’s faced.
That cross-pollination of influences and inspirations manifested itself in an assemblage of pieces defined by their dramatic dimensions and stand-out silhouettes. Pieces which featured Adam’s exquisite artwork and where the theme of the muse was accentuated by incredible wigs and hairstyles that melded with the designs to create a single fashion organism.
It was a tour-de-force collection underpinned by artistic authenticity and suffused with those qualities of humour and humility that are at the core of the designer’s personal and creative DNA.
Broke Magazine spoke to Adam as we entered a new year to ask about this latest body of work, the creative collaborations that are an integral feature of “Art is Abundance”, the experiences that have shaped his life and his aspirations for the future.
We loved your SS24 collection “Art is Abundance”. What does abundance mean to you personally and creatively and what message do you want that highly evocative title to convey?
Firstly, I’d like to say thank you for appreciating my concept BROKE Magazine. Abundance to me personally is the things some may see as small and the norm; having my own paintings hanging in my studio in Hastings by the sea, the studio that I’ve worked so hard to have.
Abundance is a warm bed with nice sheets, I remember Tracey Emin who is a main inspiration of how to be a successful artist. When she sold her piece “My Bed” one of the first things she did was get new bedding, warm sheets, that’s abundance.
Waking up to my loved one, that’s abundance. Making a cup of Earl Grey in my studio, the sound of seagulls and sea breeze, that’s abundance. Creating gowns for friends, that’s abundance.
My artistry is more than clothing, it’s a way of life which I will create forever, art is my lover. I always work with a word or title before a collection, it has to come from my soul, filter down into a painting. I then start draping the stand with printed fabrics. Isn’t that abundant and therapeutic. I want people to realise, sometimes you don’t need loads to feel abundant or be abundant.
We understand that Amy Winehouse was one of your inspirations when creating; “Art is Abundance” and wondered what it is about her life and story that resonated so strongly with you?
If she didn’t create, she would be depressed. It was her life’s calling and she had to create to carry on, that’s how I am. If I don’t create fashion, paintings and music, I get really low. It’s my therapy. I don’t follow trends, but I follow my gut, and that’s what I love about Amy and her soulfulness. I think she was very misunderstood, and I see beyond her surface of her art form.
What other influences did you draw from to create the collection?
I was working with Schwarzkopf Pro for SS24, and my first thought was, “THE HAIR IS THE HAT” I said to Nick Irwin who creatively directed the hair for the show.
This idea of Grace Jones, Bjork, Lady Gaga all wearing hats like it was hair. Then working with mega stylist Kim Howells, we started talking about the “MUSE” She’s popping to Sainsbury’s in her couture PVC skirt and tote, her big Amy Winehouse hair. The muse doesn’t have much money, but she looks loaded, this kind of power dressed person.
Isabella Blow is my style icon, I love styled pieces that don’t go together. Visual artist Cindy Sherman is also a big inspiration. The gold bobble dress from my last collection (SS24), I owe that to Artist Sarah Lucas who I have a big love for. I love her sculptural forms.
A highlight for us, among a collection of highlights, was the PVC and plaster dress that you designed with Olivia Strange. How did that collaboration come about and how self-reflective was the Bjork lyric “It takes courage to enjoy it, the hardcore and the Gentle” that you gave it?
Olivia Strange to me is an up-and-coming artist to watch. She is truly an amazing queer artist. The collaboration between us came about naturally. We would pop to Soho House and chain vape and talk for hours about it, so naturally it happened! I feel we are inspired by similar artists, and I truly think she is a standout artist in London right now. I went to one of her shows, and the hands really stood out for me, they are so soft yet so tough.
“Art is Abundance” also features your “Mania Faces” print and screen-printed T shirts made with London streetwear store Imprint. What inspired you to explore this medium?
I am a maximalist, and Hayley Cowling – who worked with me to develop the prints for my SS24 collection – created them as a repeat print. I just love the mania of the self-portraits, and this has filtered down into ready-to-wear with the major Imprint. Luis at Imprint has always been very supportive of my artistry, ever since teaching me at Middlesex University London, and I feel he saw something and said “right, I have this shop, we’re going to collaborate together and do a launch”
I just said ALRIGHT. I love more conceptual pieces, but I always love going to an art show, say Tracey Emin at White Cube, and her merch is always fantastic! I love a good T-shirt. The T-shirts I and Imprint created are hand screen-printed in Wales, they have lots of colours and use many layers of printing. they are a couture T-shirt almost.
We loved the show which we felt was such a celebration of inclusivity and queer culture. How important was it to you to create an atmosphere which complimented the clothes and your own sensibilities so perfectly?
It is very organic and not for shock value. Half of the attendees were people I know, mainly through other queer friends or couples and people who I have met in the London Queer scene. The energy backstage was very supportive, sweet and felt like I had created a world. My mum’s the reason I love bright colours, she loves Boy George. It’s all very natural, and I love organic-ness, if that’s not a word, it is now.
You’re a multi-disciplinarian who embraces songwriting, DJing, poetry, and painting alongside designing and making clothes. In what ways do those other disciplines influence and feed into your design process?
Music and painting start the whole concept. I’ve already been working on demos for the next concept and I have to feel the emotion physically, sonically then visually before I start at all. Music is the most connecting one for me, you feel the bass and sounds, they move in a way that clothing doesn’t. But with the music and clothing together, it’s like an orgasm to me. I love sewing to demos and synths, especially Bjork. When I walk home alone on the seafront after sewing and listening, I immediately feel grounded, at one with the earth.
You grew up in Plumstead and then Hastings. To what degree has that upbringing shaped your life and informed your work?
As Alexander McQueen says, it’s a jungle out there. I was in Indian temples praying at the age of 8, in street fights at 9. It brought out a consciousness in me and made me streetwise, it also made internal scars that to this day I’m still healing, like most queer people. Of course, it was because of my sexuality. Me being me. I would say London cultured me about the world, and Hastings showed me beauty in vintage fashion, the sea and community.
It also made me see my class, I was raised on council estates, then we moved to a beautiful house in Hastings for a fresh start. I love Hastings. It made me dream more.
You’ve previously described that work as “working class couture” and the fashion industry remains one that’s hugely weighted in favour of those from affluent backgrounds. What more should the industry do to create opportunities and support creatives from marginalized and disenfranchised communities?
The fashion industry like all industries is about money, what’s new, what’s hot. I love fashion though, my fashion industry friends are amazing, but we are struggling.
I feel like there isn’t enough support for new designers still. Everything needs to start from the ground at college where we are educated. We need more teaching about the business of fashion; how to market, sell, get backing, organize the finances of running a business – it should be fundamental in art schools. Period.
Mental health’s a recurring theme in your work and humours also very apparent in the Instagram descriptions you attached to show images. How important are your various passions and a sense of humour in helping you navigate what can often be an unforgiving industry?
Tracey Emin’s art teaches us to show and bare our truest selves, not that she’s happy with some of her public art pieces, but my love of how vulnerable she is really is a massive inspiration and I’ve kept that in my own creative practice. I do suffer from personal mental health issues, and I really do believe people need to feel the realness with my work, I can’t create anything I don’t like, otherwise you would know. The best art comes from the soul, otherwise why bother. A sense of humour about a sad place is always a good way to end a concept, the best therapy there is.
We understand that you’ll be showing at London Fashion Week in February. What themes will you be looking to explore with your AW24 collection and without giving away too many secrets what can we expect from it and from the upcoming show?
I have been listening to Bjork so much and Mall Grab, walking along the sea, watching the waves fight each other, working out, creating demo’s and designing with a cup of Earl Grey in my studio. I have a sense of calmness, yet I stress about the state of the world we live in. Joan of Arc is an inspiration this season, juxtaposing heaviness with softness. I want people to feel, smell, see the new collection and leave feeling empowered and a sense of calm. We must love more to carry on.
FULL SS24 CREDITS
@adamfrost x Schwarzkopfpro present ART IS ABUNDANCE SS24
Photos by @twiggles_uk
Press: KMR Consultancy @kmrcomms
Styling: Kim Howells @kim_howells
Production: Vikki Burns @vikkiburns_
Hair: Nick Irwin @nickirwinhair and the Schwarzkopf Professional Team @schwarzkopfpro using Session Label #sessionlabel
Make Up: Pablo Rodriguez @pablo_rodriguez_makeup
Nails: ImaniCured @Imanicured
Jewellery: Emily Grant at Era of Mystique @eraofmystique
Shoes: Natacha Marro @natachamarro
Print Design and Consulting: Hayley Cowling @hayley.cowling
Sound: JBL @jblaudio_uk