Whereas FEBEN‘s AW21 collection gave an extroverted overview of the garments we wear on our journeys through life’s chaotic emotional landscapes, SKY – The latest collection – takes a broodier approach. Her second London Fashion Week show is an inward, looking reflection on self-understanding and maturing into one’s own identity; the quest of brightness among darkness – both emotionally and professionally – and the balmy aspects of love.
Fiery floral designs adorn clean shirts and oblique-bearing vest tops, while flashes of mustard, crimson, and amethyst provide a feeling of cheerful eclecticism to the mix – a sense that the whole spectrum of life’s colours is truly thrown into emphasis when viewed against the dark.
The collection expands the brand’s specific lexicon into many visual realms. A dismal backdrop is created by inky satin tailoring and richly draped gowns cut on the bias, against which a webbed skirt hand-embroidered with tubular glass beads and trailing off fringe glitter like stars in a rural night sky.
FEBEN’s sophisticated sense of touch and texture inspires details like petal-shaped Mongolian fake fur appliqués sprouting from outerwear items and the side panels of bobbled shirring a whittle-waisted dinner jacket, as it always does.
It’s also visible in the brand’s signatures, which are back this season: puckered ‘Twist’ dresses – this time in blood red and the aforementioned florals; laser-cut jersey trousers, which debuted last season and were inspired by the rippling waves of hair extension packs; and FEBEN’s hand-crocheted embellished tote bags, which were created in collaboration with a community of Ghanaian artisans.
This season’s jewellery is designed by Jakhu Studio, a company that collaborates with Peruvian craftsmen, with a special emphasis on helping the country’s craftswomen.