When the AW22 collection from KWK by KAY KWOK showed at London Fashion Week in February 2022, it marked a triumphant return to the fashion capital after an eight-year hiatus. An interval during which designer and Creative Director Kay Kwok rebranded the label and made a commitment that his creative expression would no longer be constrained by fashions perceived and preconceived norms.
While that show was attended by a small coterie of industry insiders the word-of-mouth buzz generated by the edgily experimental designs displayed and the wholly immersive experience that showcased them, has led to the designers’ subsequent shows becoming a must-see event on the London Fashion Week calendar. That was certainly the case in September when, despite a number of other fashion events taking place at the same time, huge queues formed outside the Angel, Islington venue where the SS24 collection “Portals”, the fourth chapter in the KWK by KAY KWOK story, was showing.
Broke Magazine were delighted to be included on that guest list and after the London Fashion Week dust had settled, we spoke to Kay about what inspired “Portals”, the influences which have informed and formed the KWK aesthetic and his goals and aspirations for the future.
Congratulations on your SS24 collection which we loved. It was entitled Chapter 4 “Portals”. What inspired it and where do you want that portal to transport us to?
Thank you! The SS24 collection, titled “Portals,” was inspired by the concept of exploring new dimensions and the unknown. The portal is meant to transport us to a realm of endless possibilities and imagination. I would say there would be our utopia.
This is the fourth chapter of the KWK story since you rebranded the label. All have explored the themes of intergalactic travel and futuristic fantasy. What is it about this subject matter that resonates so powerfully with you?
At my childhood, I was exposed to imaginative Japanese cartoons like Pikachu, Dragon Ball, Sailor Moon, they are all sooooo creative on the with fantasy, energy concept, spaces, portals, etc. I think this is where my imaginative thoughts are from. During these years, mindfulness, and Universal energy has been part of my life. So basically, all chapters in KWK are presenting my imaginative worlds.
The storytelling element is integral to your shows which are sensory spectacles. What do you want those of us who attend to feel not just the clothes but also about ourselves and the world around us when we’re part of that immersive experience?
Live a REAL OWN LIFE! There are so many social norms, society values, other people’s comments that light on us. However, do we really know what we want to be, what we want to do? Or are we just following what other people are doing / what society /friends/ norms tell you to do? I am not saying we need to go AGAINST them but more importantly that we have self-realization and self-understanding.
It is a very short journey on earth, compared to the Universe and light years. Make yourself shine and adjust yourself to cope with all challenges and happiness here. And then we might leave satisfyingly and jump on a portal to another universe.
We felt that this season was a return to the more artistic and experimental aesthetic which characterized SS23 and AW23. How important to you is it to constantly evolve as a designer and to also challenge the preconceptions people might have about what constitutes a KWK collection?
As a designer, I believe in pushing boundaries, experimenting with new aesthetics, and embracing artistic expression is our mission.
There is a very important brand message from KWK- embracing all changes. Welcome and be open minded to every harmless change, so that we will have an exciting journey here on earth. The brand is all about bringing new experiences to audiences.
I think KWK has been experimenting with fresh aesthetics and design. But we would also want to play in a contemporary and also futuristic spectrum.
Karl Lagerfeld famously said, “Art is art, fashion is fashion”. Thats a maxim that we feel you brilliantly disrupt. Your most sculptural SS24 pieces were displayed on the runway akin to art installations. Do you see any boundaries between the two and if so, where do you think they lie?
Everyone on earth has the right to have their say, to define anything for themselves. There is no right or wrong. It’s the views of everyone and of me.
I live in art in my daily life. Fashion to me is a moving contemporary art, the tool for me to tell the story, it’s the medium I use to speak for myself and for you to speak for yourself.
The song that played at the shows finale was a tribute to your late friend, the Chinese singer and songwriter Coco Lee. How did she influence you and what do you think her legacy will be?
I miss Coco. Loving her is not because of her fame, of course she was a genius and had a successful career. She was the first Chinese singer to be the brand ambassador of Chanel years ago and the first Chinese singer to perform at the Oscars. The reason is that she was REAL to people. Our friendship started right after I was the fashion director for her world tour in 2019.
Having a real, humble, sincere and respectful mind in a super influential role is not easy, especially when everyone around you spoils you. She treated everyone with a warm heart. Something that personally I think is rare in human attributes.
Many people have power and fame, but they don’t choose to be nice to everyone around them. They might think they don’t need to. No offence. But this is a CHOICE.
Since rebranding and returning to London Fashion Week with your SS23 collection you’ve come back every season. What prompted that return and what is it about London that keeps bringing you back?
The decision to return to London Fashion Week with the Chapter 1 collection was driven by a desire for a fresh start and a new chapter for the brand as well as a new chapter of how I express my view on life/earth through KWK.
London has a vibrant and diverse fashion scene that embraces innovation and creativity. London to me is not only a inspirational city. More to me, I feel connected to London since my study time here. It is definitely a perfect city to showcase KWK’s evolving vision. The positive reception and ongoing support from the London fashion community have been also key factors in our continued presence at London Fashion Week.
How much of that affinity with the city was formed during your internship with Alexander McQueen and studies at the London College of Fashion. What did you learn from those experiences and how have they shaped your creative process and your business ethos?
The time that I interned at Alexander McQueen and studied at the London College of Fashion were undoubtedly transformative experiences in my design life.
I mean the impact was huge. The design skill, value, vision and appreciation were so different from eastern countries. Not only did the experience expose me to the vivid history and avant-garde spirit of the city’s fashion scene, I also learned valuable technical skills, developed my design aesthetic, and gained a deeper understanding of the industry. But also, it has greatly influenced my creative process, pushing me to think outside the box, taking bold artistic risks and more importantly, daring to crazily express my view through fashion.
Beyonce wore a custom-made piece from your Chapter 2 collection on her Renaissance tour. While artists don’t get much bigger, are there any other public figures that you’d like to see wearing KWK BY KAY KWOK, and why?
Seeing Beyoncé wear a custom piece from my Chapter 2 collection was an incredible honor. While Beyoncé is undoubtedly a global icon, there are many other public figures I would be thrilled to see wearing KWK BY KAY KWOK.
However, I understand that it is quite important for a brand to have some exposure with public figures like well-known singers and celebrities. What I also value is the creative teams behind them. I love seeing how creative people are craving to use KWK’s creations. I love seeing how they style those KWK creations for the celebrities to create iconic looks. And how everyone cherishes KWK’s existence.
As we move towards the end of the year what are your goals and aspirations for 2024 and beyond?
LIVE LOUDER! is definitely a goal and aspiration for 2024 and beyond!
There’s lots of plans for KWK like expanding the KWK brand globally, reaching new markets, collaboration, and continuing to innovate within the fashion industry, etc.
However, it’s super important to also know the reason behind why we spend so much time on a thing! We are all like travelers on earth. Some may stay longer; some may stay shorter. And some forget time flies, like crazily fast.
To me, apart from those business plannings. I really hope that KWK ‘s fashion language is a place where like-minded people can find themselves and belong.
With “Portals”, KWK by KAY KWOK transported us to a new dimension. One which illustrated the escapism and fantasy that clothing can bring to someone’s life. One which deconstructed and reframed the boundaries between art and fashion. A miscellany of pieces that were part intergalactic streetwear, part art installation, and which were displayed as a wholly immersive visual feast where garments and sensory spectacle merged seamlessly to create an unforgettable ethereal experience.
Harnessing the new frontiers of AI and digitalization with an innate design sensibility KWK by KAY KWOK continues to gift us designs that are both exceptional and exciting. Designs which transcend fashion, and which also show us the future of fashion.
Kay encourages us to embrace change and live louder. That’s a mantra we wholeheartedly endorse and if you haven’t yet embraced KWK by KAY KWOK we’d suggest that’s a change worth making.
Photography by Chris Yates Media