LFW AW25 | Dreaming Eli, Between My Heart & Ribs

We walked through the brick-covered church; the space was converted into an intimate setting bathed in soft, romantic light with candles and pomegranates dispersed along the runway floor. The music vibrated through my body; the feeling was familiar, like the pulsating of a heartbeat. Anticipation surrounded me and other attendees.

As the Models began to walk out, our eyes were locked in. They travelled down the runway slowly and sensually so you could take in every detail of the garments. Various fabrics were used, including distressed knits, lace, ribbon, mesh, and satin. All were perfectly placed on their bodies as if it were their second skin. Every garment tells a story, and the collection shows an immense appreciation of the female body. Elisa quotes, “My body. My home. The only home I’ll ever have.”

This season, we saw shibori techniques used to create fabric manipulation. Layering was used to mirror the complexities of womanhood, inspired by Elisa’s personal experiences of vulnerability and strength. The colour red was dominant in this season, symbolising ‘blood, passion, and undeniable pulse of life’.

The models’ hairstyles were up in a messy French Chignon. Nails were long and pointy. Makeup looks were smokey and raw, with a pop of red either on the lip or eyes. This bold styling complemented the model’s overall looks. Black and White Pearl bags, designed by Harry Mack, appeared in this year’s collection, marking Dreaming Eli’s first collaborative bag collection. These bags complimented the pearl details in specific garments and the satin ribbon throughout the collection. The shoes were classic Dreaming Eli stilt high chunky platforms secured with ribbon.

As the show was coming to an end, people dispersed around the room. Suddenly, another person walked down the runway in a wedding dress. However, as they approached closer, I saw they were covered in see-through plastic. The sharp contrast made me think, is this a protestor? I realised she was part of the show and had a pomegranate, which she was prizing open, leading to dripping dark red seeds and juice all over her. This moment was incredibly impactful. The pomegranates I saw on the floor foreshadow this particular moment, reflecting the collection’s theme. 

I continued to walk around the room, and in the corner, there was an artist called Sophie Tea Art, who was painting one of the looks live. There was an energetic atmosphere in the room; people were ecstatic. The show did not just leave a mark on me but on everyone else in that room.

Photography by Tahjana McCoy

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