Gyouree Kim
Hailing from Seoul and London, Gyouree Kim spearheaded the self-established brand in 2023. Sewing an ethos of creativity into each collection, we see a seamless combination of ready-to-wear garments imbued by couture’s charm. Elements are whimsical, romantic and dramatic, but not to take away from their delicate nature. Looks felt light and airy. All the while maintaining a piercing directness, each element played a specific role.
Pillowing materials flounced alongside the models as they strode down the catwalk, each pausing once to give attendees a white flower. Works include off-cut elements, dead-stock materials and the combining of myriad delicate fabrics. These works redefine attention to detail. Each garment features labyrinthe-like corsetry and clever layering where we see the coalescence of both historical significance and contemporary elements.
Hurricane B
Merging the elegance of Italian sartorial tradition with the avant-garde and conceptually manifold. Thinking toward the future, these pieces are crafted in Italy, meticulous care is a centrefold to this brand. The redefinition of luxury, quality craftsmanship and cutting-edge design meet in the middle against a futurist backdrop.
This collection posits the notion that sophistication need not be the end of playfulness. Innovative materials merge with elegant aesthetics and detail-oriented structural practices.
These garments are representative of more than just fashion, they reflect an artistic state of being.
Nebojsa Jewellery
The jewellery collection was presented against an all-black leather backdrop. Models were dressed in leather garments from head to toe, which provided a powerful juxtaposition for the statement jewellery to truly pop.
Available in gold and silver metallics, Nebojsa Jewellery presents via abstract shapes. Chunky structure allows the wearer to constantly reinvent the way they interact with each of the works and envision how they’ll include them into their wardrobe.
XASHA – Sasha Swedlund
Slicked back hair complemented white eyeliner and futurist makeup. Alienesque shapes were constructed out of hand-dyed fabrics, those of which were manipulated by sodium chloride which distorted the paint. Blues, purples and pinks intermixed in bright colourways. Salt 2024 is an exploration of one of the most standard minerals which takes many forms.
Structure was added via tubing which created 3D structures, seemingly protruding off of the models convoluting the audience’s perception of otherwise human shapes. Allowing the mind to wander into new spaces. Bright fabrics were combined with more muted tones – the juxtaposition of the layered materials created a variety of viewpoints for the viewer’s eyes to begin, making the garments multi-dimensional.
Large puff sleeves populated the collection as well as overlapping materials that were sewn into base structures but simultaneously lifted in other directions, creating larger-than-life shapes. Corrosive patterns presented alongside pristine hemlines which created playful juxtaposition in each piece.
OK KINO
The Moldova-based brand is founded by Denis Caunov and Darya Golneva. The pair present an interesting perspective. Their backgrounds in architecture and fashion design, present a blending of perspectives which creates structurally sound and artfully compelling collections.
The collection included colour block separates, heavy pleating detail, hard hemlines, and peek-a-boo details. Drop shoulders were tethered by delicate straps and crochet skirt overlay presented as they were hemmed over-top of trousers. Chic tie-back details accompanied thick knits, all whilst models donned slicked back hair and black shoes. The background music mimicked that of a busy cityscape, assisting in the imagination of these works as they could easily be incorporated into a street-style wardrobe.
Rooted in its national heritage and envisioning of cultural symbolism, a contemporary reimagination presents within the brand. The pair collaborated at length with local artisans, ensuring an upholding of traditional expertise all from an innovation-focused vantage point.
Intricate attention to detail presents via a limited colour palette. I find that less can be more when it comes to the way colour infiltrates our wardrobes. Working within limitations, in this case – neutral tones, creates some of the most interesting combinations and stylistic choices.