Taiwanese designer Jenn Lee has been entrancing us since she first showed off-schedule during London Fashion Week with her AW20 collection. Hers is a design aesthetic that’s imbued with a cross-continental and cross-cultural commonality, one that marries traditional Chinese influences with alternative Western cultural touchstones. A visual vocabulary that draws from punk, psychedelia, and club culture to create avant-garde pieces that also tell Lee’s heritage story and illuminate the centuries-old traditions that so inform her creative process.
Now an on-schedule fashion week favourite, she showed her much-anticipated SS25 collection “Echoes of Youth” in September before an audience of the fashion cognoscenti including a host of industry insiders. The collection pays homage to the carefree spirit of youth and the spontaneity that comes with it, a spontaneity that flowed through the design process to gift is a miscellany of pieces that were undeniably Jenn Lee but also showed a designer continuing to evolve. This manifested itself in a collection that, while displaying the designer’s deconstructed signature style, was re-energized and reimagined with folds, fluidity and exposed seams. A melding of fabulous and functional, “Echoes of Youth” was characterized by an artistry and command of fabric manipulation that was underpinned by the ethical intentionality that lies at the core of the brand’s values.
For SS25 that symbiotic sensibility was enhanced by a collaboration with esteemed embroidery studio Atelier Mowa to create a selection of stunning 3D headpieces. A collaboration that further elevated the collection, and in taking inspiration from the ancient art of Chinese calligraphy, illustrated the traditional artisanal skills of her homeland. That collaborative process was further evinced through Lee’s joining with the renowned Taiwanese cosmetic acupuncture brand SALIENT to highlight the self-care benefits of that treatment, both before and during the show.
Broke mag spoke to Jenn Lee after the fashion month madness had subsided to ask her about this latest collection, the vision and values that inform her work , and her plans for the future.
Congratulations on your SS25 collection “Echoes of Youth” which we loved. What inspired it and how much of that inspiration came from your own youth?
Thank you! The collection was all about tapping into childhood nostalgia so I wanted to bring a sense of playful exploration, using retro aesthetics as a foundation. My design process was really spontaneous— I literally crumpled pieces of paper and let organic shapes emerge. It’s all about reconnecting with that carefree, youthful creativity, so a lot of the inspiration definitely comes from my own experiences growing up. Watching my young son as he grows up and discovers his creativity has also been a big inspiration – the experience of non judgmental expression.
While it was unmistakably Jenn Lee it also showed an evolution in your design aesthetic. How would you describe that evolution in terms of colour palette, fabrics, and design?
Although this collection draws inspiration from youth, I found it to have a more refined, mature tone compared to my previous work. The school uniform motif sparked an exploration of tailoring and traditional silhouettes, which I exaggerated and distorted to create something fresh. This pushed me toward an elegance I hadn’t yet explored in my designs. The color palette shifted towards blacks, whites, and deep greens, with only subtle touches of our signature bright red. It was essential to maintain JENN LEE’s core punk aesthetic, while also evoking a sense of faded nostalgia and playing with exaggerated traditional elements.
How do you balance the desire to continually evolve while retaining the signature elements that have made the brand so well- loved?
It’s all about keeping the core elements that define JENN LEE while finding new ways to express them. For example, in this collection, my deconstructed style is still very present, but I reinterpreted it with new textures, folds, exposed seams, and geometric shapes. I love playing with sentimental details, like preserving everyday objects in resin to make this season’s jewelry. It’s about keeping that rebellious, creative spirit alive while evolving.
You collaborated with Atelier Mowa this season to create the most stunning headpieces. Can you tell us what inspired them and the technology and techniques used to bring them to life?
Collaborating with Atelier Mowa was such a highlight. We created these amazing 3D embroidered headpieces using haute couture techniques. They were inspired by Chinese calligraphy, but we gave it a twist—melding it with my punk aesthetic so the ink looks like it is bleeding through, making the traditional art form feel dynamic and expressive. It was a beautiful fusion of cultures and styles.
You also partnered with Taiwanese acupuncture wellness brand SALIENT. How did that come about and what is it about their message and values that made you want to work with them?
The partnership with SALIENT came from a shared appreciation for wellness and rejuvenation. Their acupuncture treatments align with the spirit of my collection, focusing on self-care and revitalisation. We incorporated acupuncture into the show itself—models had treatments before they walked the runway, and some still had the needles in, creating a striking, unconventional look.
Fashion can be a particularly stressful industry, particularly during fashion month. What self-care wellness routines do you follow to help alleviate those pressures?
Fashion month can be really intense! I make sure to prioritize self-care and spending as much time with my family as I can manage. Working with SALIENT was actually part of that— looking at how there is such a need for wellness in the fashion space. Acupuncture helps me with rejuvenation, and it was amazing to share that focus on well-being during such a high-stress time.
Jenn Lee is known for its ethical intentionality and environmental advocacy. Can you tell us about the sustainable practices you followed with this collection and how you monitor the integrity of your supply chains?
We prioritize using recycled fabrics and repurposed materials whenever possible. Our one-of-a-kind pieces incorporate unconventional materials like paper, allowing us to experiment with unique shapes and textures. This approach not only adds a distinctive, artistic quality to the designs but also aligns with our commitment to sustainability.
Are there any challenges in embracing a sustainable footprint while also being a commercially viable business and how do you balance those demands?
Balancing sustainability with being commercially viable is definitely a challenge, but it’s one I embrace. I’ve built the brand with an ethical foundation, so it’s part of every decision I make, from the fabrics to the production processes. It’s important to me that my designs reflect my values while still being accessible.
Your intentional ethos includes your show models who while all being very “Jenn Lee” are also very diverse. How important is the casting process and what qualities are you looking for when choosing models to represent the brand?
Casting is so important to me. I always look for models who embody the diverse/ creative spirit of the brand. Each model brings something unique to the runway, and I love that they’re all different but still very “Jenn Lee.” Inclusivity is key, and I want my shows to reflect that. For my previous show I cast all the models online to find people with the JENN LEE aesthetic who weren’t from the fashion industry. Many of these models came back for this season’s show too. I like JENN LEE models to reflect real people who would buy my clothes.
You are one of our must-see London Fashion Week shows. As it celebrates its fortieth anniversary what does LFW mean to you and how important is the platform to brand visibility and growth?
LFW has been such an incredible platform for my brand, especially as it celebrates its 40th anniversary. It’s a place where creativity and innovation thrive, and being part of that scene has helped with visibility and growth. LFW has given me the space to push boundaries and show my collections to the world.
What are your plans and aspirations for the rest of the year and into 2025?
For the rest of the year and into 2025, I’m excited to keep evolving, collaborating, and pushing creative boundaries. Whether it’s through fashion, wellness partnerships, or new projects, I’m always looking for ways to innovate.