RAY CHU is a Taiwanese brand founded by the eponymous designer in 2016 and his London Fashion Week shows have become one of our, and many others, must-see events on the LFW schedule.
Having explored oceanic themes with a SS24 collection that invited us to consider the plight of the endangered Manta ray, for SS25 the designer shifted his attention from the sea to the shore, and specifically the Crinum asiaticum flower. A flower that holds deep cultural and spiritual significance in Taiwanese society it’s known for its strength, resilience, and adaptability, qualities Ray sees in his brand. These shared qualities manifested themselves in a collection that contained the signature RAY CHU elements we’ve grown to love while cleverly tailored statement details, a slew of new silhouettes, and additions to the colour palette demonstrated a designer whose visual vocabulary continues to evolve.
The fabrics used to create these exciting and exceptional pieces included recycled fish scale textiles, water chestnut yarns, and a high proportion of natural materials, a testament to the environmental empathy that underpins the designer’s work. It’s an ethical ethos that saw RAY CHU partner with non-alcoholic drinks company “Wave” this season, a brand whose undertaking to reduce the ecological impact of the beverage industry very much aligns and resonates with Ray’s vision and values. That advocacy sits hand in hand with a commitment to technological innovation with the designer using 3D printing technology again this season, on this occasion using it to bring the Crinum asiaticum flower to life across an array of garments and accessories.
After the London Fashion Week dust had settled, Broke Mag sat down with Ray to ask about this latest collection, the influences that have shaped his career and his future aspirations.
Congratulations on your SS25 collection which showed at London Fashion Week. The Crinum asiaticum flower is a recurring symbol on the collection’s garments, jewellery, and wearable art. What inspired its use as a motif, and can you tell us about its properties and place in Taiwanese culture?
The Crinum asiaticum flower became a key motif because it represents resilience and beauty in a way that strongly resonates with the RAY CHU brand. Its natural ability to thrive in harsh coastal environments mirrors the strength and adaptability we aim to convey through our designs. In Taiwanese culture, this flower holds deep significance, particularly within the Amis tribe, from which the place name “Makung” is derived. Beyond its symbolic meaning, the flower is also known for its medicinal properties, making it not only a cultural but also a practical symbol of vitality and healing.
What technology and techniques did you use to bring this motif to life in both the garments and accessories?
We used 3D printing technology to bring the intricate form of the Crinum asiaticum flower to life in both garments and accessories. The 3D-printed floral elements allow us to capture the flower’s bulbous beauty and add depth and dimension to the pieces. Additionally, we incorporated discarded wires that were stripped down and reassembled to symbolize regeneration and vitality. These materials are carefully intertwined into the designs, ensuring that the technology and craftsmanship seamlessly merge with our sustainable practices.
SS25 included the signature RAY CHU elements we love while also introducing new additions to the colour palette and silhouettes. Can you tell us about them and what influenced their inclusion?
For SS25, we wanted to maintain the essence of RAY CHU while introducing fresh elements. Our signature fiery red remains a focal point, representing strength and passion, but we’ve also added shades like icy yellow and neutral tones to balance the boldness and provide a broader range of wearable options. The silhouettes explore a playful balance between structure and fluidity, with designs like flowerpot-inspired skirts and misaligned blazers, inspired by the organic shapes found in nature. The inclusion of these new colours and silhouettes reflects both our commitment to innovation and the natural world that inspires us.
Sustainability is at the core of all you do. What sustainable practices did you follow to make this collection, what ethical fibres and materials were used, and where did you source them from?
Sustainability continues to be important to our approach. For SS25, we used materials like recycled fish scale textiles and water chestnut yarns, which are both innovative and environmentally responsible. We also incorporated discarded wires, repurposing them into new designs to reflect our focus on upcycling. These materials were sourced from sustainable suppliers who share our commitment to reducing environmental impact. Our design process also involved minimizing waste and ensuring that every piece contributes to a circular fashion model, where materials can be regenerated rather than discarded.
This season saw you partner with non-alcoholic drinks brand “Wave.” How did that come about and what is it about their message and values that motivated you to work with them?
Our collaboration with Wave felt like a natural fit because both brands prioritise sustainability and well-being. Wave’s ethos of promoting a healthy lifestyle without sacrificing enjoyment aligns with our values of creating ethical and thoughtful fashion. Their commitment to reducing environmental impact in the beverage industry mirrors our approach to fashion, and together, we wanted to create a partnership that reflected a shared vision for a more conscious future.
What challenges, if any, are there in being an ethical brand and also being a commercially viable one?
One of the biggest challenges is finding the balance between sustainability and commercial viability. Ethical sourcing and production often come with higher costs, and that can be a challenge in an industry that prioritizes fast fashion and lower price points. However, we firmly believe that investing in sustainable practices not only helps protect the environment but also builds long-term trust with our customers. The key is to create designs that are not only sustainable but also desirable and innovative, ensuring that they resonate with a broad audience while staying true to our values.
RAY CHU has reached its eighth year in an industry where many fail to survive a few seasons. How has the brand evolved since its inception, and what motivates you to keep designing and exploring new directions?
Over the past eight years, the brand has evolved by staying true to our core values while constantly pushing the boundaries of design. What motivates me is the desire to create pieces that tell a story—whether it’s through the use of innovative materials or the symbolic motifs that reflect deeper meanings. Each collection represents a new chapter in our journey, and the opportunity to continue evolving, both creatively and ethically, drives me to explore new directions and keep the brand fresh.
Who are the designers that have influenced you and why?
I’ve been influenced by designers who are commercially successful and daringly to try something different. Such as Jacquemus, Muccia Prada and Jonathan Anderson.
2024 marks the fortieth anniversary of London Fashion Week. As someone who shows here each season, how important is that LFW visibility to you, and what benefits does it bring?
London Fashion Week is incredibly important to me because it offers a global platform to showcase our designs and share our vision. Being part of such a prestigious event allows us to connect with industry leaders, buyers, and press, and it opens doors for international opportunities. LFW is known for championing innovative and boundary-pushing designers, and that ethos aligns perfectly with the RAY CHU brand. The visibility it provides helps us reach a wider audience and strengthens our position in the global fashion landscape.
Having shown your latest collection to great acclaim, what are your plans and aspirations for the rest of the year and into 2025?
We’re excited to continue exploring new sustainable materials and innovative techniques in our upcoming collections. For the rest of 2024 and into 2025, we plan to expand our collaborations with like-minded brands and explore new markets. We’re also focused on deepening our commitment to circular fashion and we will have an exhibition in Taiwan. There are several exciting projects in the pipeline, including new product lines and further exploration into technology and virtual fashion like we had with Portal M this season for digital Fashion Week before our show, so stay tuned!