Dr Noki (real name JJ Hudson) founded his label in the UK in 1996 and is a tried and true member of the sustainability movement – being a creator of the term before it ever became a thing. The revolutionary designer has always proceeded on a brave and spirited passage, bringing forth a message of defiance, having founded his eponymous label under the heritage of London’s ’90s DIY rave culture, mostly seen in Shoreditch during the late 90s.
Noki’s courageous and uncompromising visual message, as well as, his anti-establishment story, has never been more relevant or intriguing as we sleepwalk ever closer to environmental, economic, and social calamity. Noki is usually seen wearing a Noki-made mask, that conceals his face and is cut with the same sure-handed, haphazard approach as the rest of his garments. The designer and artist have become something of a cult symbolistic character in the London fashion scene.
Noki is at the forefront of what is now referred to as “circular fashion,” upcycling mass-produced garments and creating brand mash-ups to create one-of-a-kind streetwear couture ensembles. In addition to its mainline of eye-catching fading sportswear with fused logos and one-of-a-kind streetwear couture designs, he strives to mirror the voices of tomorrow by upcycling garments gathered from old landfills.
The NOKI NESTT—an educational endeavour that saw Noki create his school and studio—was the focus of this season’s catwalk. “The idea is that students will learn how to custom build silhouettes on their own, to build [their own] interpretations,” he says.
“Back in the ’90s, I had to experiment with my own rave attire to come up with fresh concepts I hadn’t seen before—customizing it with an inner feeling, I suppose… I’d graffiti and subvert each t-shirt as its pages, then watch my friends wear them out in the rave scene—like a raging double-page spread. Fresh zone vibes from the ’90s. Each bespoke construction is inspired by a vintage discovery. Then my imagination shifts into 3D construction mode. I know it’ll work when I first scissor-cut through them. I adore putting blind faith into action.”
Photography by Sarah Schindler and Chris Yates