“It has become a symbol of culture, creativity, and responsibility”, Ljubljana Fashion Week returned for their 15th edition. Popping up at the Slovenian capital’s Rog Center, the born-again factory building made a fitting home for this LFWJ’s 10th bday blowout, in a celebration of textiles and talent. The team behind Slovenia’s major fashion showcase have kept evolution, sustainability and innovation at the forefront of what they do at LFJW. Over their decade run they’ve hosted a load of standout designers. Surrealism, minimalism, the avant-garde, streetwear… Slovenia’s firmly in the fashion sphere, and busting down barriers season after season.
This year’s helping didn’t disappoint, there was a major sense of personality and individualism throughout the curated lineup. TANJA VIDIC X MANDEGAR showed off new era knitwear at LFWJ this season. Somehow making these drop dead dresses, we can’t get our heads around these being knitted? When’s wool been so c*nt? Swirling shapes, curves and cutouts, that extend from and exaggerate the cast’s bodies. Webbing and mesh gets stretched and laid out in Vidic’s forever confident patterns. It’s no wonder the designer recently collaborated with the one and only Rick Owens for the very same season. Mandegar provides well worthy sidekicks for Vidic’s creations, with all jewellery, hardware and accessories. Whilst Mandegar did the works on frosting and accessorising, COLLECTION 01 is indeed Vidic’s first independent lines since graduating. We’re on our knees for a piece already, Tanja Vidic has our eyes peeled and hearts pounding.
“Crafted locally and intended to be worn globally.” Jona Bednjanec’s collection, tongue-and-cheekily titled Knit-a-Porter killed it. Sharing a new vision for knitwear, hand and machine made pieces, combining a variety of yarns and techniques. Jona says it’s important to her to keep production small and create clothing that lasts, often collabing with local producers. Though this hasn’t stopped the designer finding legs in America, their use of deadstock materials and a made-to-order option has made it possible for Jona Bedjanec to expand, whilst sticking true to their ethical mission, and one-of-a-kind aesthetic. The line had a franken-knit appeal, in THE best way possible. Slamming together bold patterns, colours and textures, Knit-a-porter is a bright and playful funky feast.
Life can be a bit of a whirlwind, full of ups and downs, and yet somehow, there’s always a silver lining. This idea of hope within hardship is what the Argentum collection captured, but in a way that’s both subtle and layered, blending style with deeper meaning. The choice to incorporate silver into this collection isn’t just aesthetic. Silver, as a material, transforms through polish, gaining its true shine only after a bit of wear and care. It’s a fitting metaphor for growth, for the kind of beauty that emerges after overcoming life’s scrapes and scratches. Argentum takes that idea of transformation and weaves it into each piece, letting the silver elements serve as subtle reminders that even tough experiences can bring out a renewed, refined version of ourselves.
In contrast to the saturation drenched, dopamine dressing of other desginers, genderless label, Ludus brought home a line centred around black. Permanent Black III presents the brands big and best selling pieces, now, all reimagined in the darkest tones. Uniting the line in this shadowy colour palette allowed the cut, silhouettes and fabrications of each item to take centre stage. Ludus uses solely natural materials, and natural dying techniques – calling back to traditional elements yet producing the most contemporary styles is something the label is fluent in. Dragan Hritov has made tailoring his own, unveiling heavy robes in their specially cultivated black hue, alongside draped soft satin, longlines and razor sharp angles. Pulling away from, and pushing straight through the boundaries set in traditional, gendered tailoring (bore.) makes way for a collection that delivers a futuristic sensibility, whilst working in harmony with the sustainable, ethical and natural.
Sari Valenci made all of our weekend cottage-core, garden picnic dreams come true. Shed loads of ruby red gingham, super femme lace trims, and green grass skirts all set against a backdrop of everyone’s fav klepto queen, Winona Ryder. With her head poking out of the grass, the show pays homage to the cult classic movie, Heathers (going straight on our re-watchlist). Exploring youth and the good, bad and ugly that come with that. The presentation of this collection somehow balances those deep and dark things whilst painting the picture of prettiness in dreams, imaginary lands and glorious naivety. I want to go to a teaparty with my tits out! And if Winona’s there too that would be fab.
Another visionary label resisting tradition is Made in Anselma. Sink into surrealism with Demode for SS24, dreaming up a collection that included extreme quilt-like looks, and shoulder pads that are, in fact your everyday curtain rail. Once again we see a designer make use of deadstock fabrics, this time in pre-loved curtains. However, Made in Anselma want to hammer home that their collection is by no means sustainable and, in contrast, directly lean in to bravely question societies ideas on this. Turning these once useful fabrics, into now such avant-guard outfits, with little (to no) practicality. They will be wasted once finished with. Modelling this collection, an intriguing group in white face paint, one in white ruffles reminding us of David Bowie’s Ashes to Ashes clown. Made in Anselma put on a brash spectacle in this unapologetic social commentary, with looks imagined larger than life, and use of visuals and sound, their cleverly curated theatrics were by no means minimal, and they never wished them to be – nor do we.
We’ll be screaming about LFJW’s collections all the way until the next, but that’s it for our sum up this season. Whether we’ll be trying to fashion some pointed pumps from our neighbours lawn, or mini skirts from or Nan’s old curtains, may be another question – but also why tf not… Slovenia’s scene has us dreaming up all possibilities. Think outside of the boxes and beyond, be bold and bright, irresponsible and ethical, lawless and fabulous. Make and wear whatever you fancy, and we fancy dripping in LFJW designers.