In a world where fashion serves as a canvas for the avant-garde, the RE/CREATE SS24 couture show unveils a new chapter in the narrative of creative rebellion. Set on the backdrop of the beautiful St. John’s Church Hyde Park and warmly welcomed by beverages and sweet treats, the audience was transformed to a realm that fell beneath a sea of smoke and glittering lights. What unfolded was not just an elaborate couture catwalk, designer YUHAN AO collaborated with DANCE.FILM.PERFORMANCE for a performance, complemented by visual works from artist Javier Soler.
Jivomir Domoustchiev, a name synonymous with the fearless exploration of future fashion, opened the show with his signature vinyl creations that have redefined modern couture since the inception of his eponymous brand in 2016. Domoustchiev’s designs are not simply garments; they are bold declarations of self-expression, crafted from his deep belief that fashion is a medium for challenging conventions and igniting the imagination. His work, a harmonious blend of symmetry and asymmetry, invites us into a world where the purity of form is celebrated, and the unthinkable becomes reality. Each piece is a sculptural exploration of what it means to exist in the future, where traditional boundaries between art and fashion dissolve. With a portfolio that spans the pages of leading fashion magazines and the stages of global music icons like Lady Gaga, Jennifer Lopez, and Nicki Minaj, Domoustchiev’s influence is undeniable, and tonight, he reminds us once again why his vision continues to lead the charge in the evolution of fashion.
Following this powerful opening, Karina Bond introduces her ethereal yet disruptive vision of contemporary womenswear. Since launching her brand in 2022, Bond has captivated the fashion world with her liberated approach, where each creation serves as a portal into the depths of the imagination. A graduate of Central Saint Martins and a L’Oréal Prize winner, Bond’s designs are a marriage of emotion and escapism. As such, the collection offers a reprieve from the mundane and brings about a space between our dreams and the reality, reclaiming creativity in its wake. Her collections, characterised by luminescent organza and weightless, sculptural panels, are as much about the experience of wearing them as they are about the visual impact they create not only limited to the garment itself but the beautiful accessories that adorned the models. Bond’s work challenges the conventional, inviting the wearer to step into a world where beauty and the unconventional coexist effortlessly.
Next, the show plunges into the darkly surreal world of BingRong Huang, a rising star who has quickly made a name for herself with her gothic, voluminous designs that defy the ordinary. A recent graduate of the London College of Fashion, Huang’s debut collection is a masterclass in the art of creating otherworldly fashion. Her work, characterised by layers of tulle and cascading volumes of fabric, evokes a sense of the fantastical, where each piece tells a story that transcends the tangible. Drawing inspiration from her personal journey and creative vision, Huang’s designs offer a fresh perspective on contemporary fashion, one that is rooted in a deep understanding of the power of imagination. Her collaborations with notable artists and publications have already set her apart as a trailblazer, and tonight, her collection invites us to journey into a realm where fashion is not just worn but experienced on a deeply emotional level.
Lizandro Acera then takes the stage with a collection that is both a homage to his cultural heritage and a commentary on the complexities of modern identity. Acera, a designer deeply influenced by his Filipino roots and his diasporic experience, creates garments that are rich with meaning and texture. His work is a continuous exploration of contemporary techniques and forms, subtly paying tribute to the vivid pre-colonial past that lingers in the history of the Philippines. Through intricate textures and bold silhouettes, Acera’s designs tell a story of defiance, where the ruffled skirts and layered garments represent the convulsive yet decaying movements of intertwined cultures. Acera’s collection is a powerful statement of identity, blending sharp, confident fashion choices with a deep sense of melancholia. In doing so, the audience is also made to consider the deeper narratives embedded within fashion, where each piece is not just a garment but a dialogue between cultures and histories.
The evening culminates with the presentation of Yuhan Ao’s latest collection, “FORGOTTEN THE TRACES,” a deeply nostalgic exploration inspired by the abandoned Euston underground station in London. Ao, a Chinese designer based in London, is known for her avant-garde approach to traditional tailoring, and tonight’s collection is no exception. By deconstructing classic silhouettes and employing raw edges alongside innovative pulp materials, Ao redefines the complexity of handcrafted suits, creating garments that are as much about texture and structure as they are about style. Her collection is a tactile journey through time, where each piece tells the story of history and memory, captured in the distressed edges and peeling layers that evoke the passage of time. The collaboration with DANCE.FILM.PERFORMANCE, alongside the visual artistry of Javier Soler, promises a multi-sensory experience that bridges the gap between the traditional and the contemporary, the handcrafted and the digital.
As the lights dim and the smoke clears, the night’s show leaves us with a profound sense of what is possible when fashion is pushed beyond its conventional limits. Each designer, with their unique vision and fearless approach, has not only presented a collection but has offered a glimpse into the future of fashion—one where creativity knows no bounds, and the only limit is the imagination.
Photographers: Julija Hafizova, Luca Stine, Rossella Damiani and Stefano Giuliano