When it comes to fashion, while most are trying to keep up with our favourite major fashion houses, my eyes are always drawn to universities. Why? Because they are the future of fashion. With their BA Fashion course, the University of Westminster is ranked 2nd in the UK for their ‘Research Quality’ in Art and Design, were the first course in the world to show a selection of their students on the official London Fashion Week schedule and have an incredible alumni of talented individuals including London Fashion Week designers Steven Stokey Daley, Paolo Carzana, Katie Ann McGuigan, Roberta Einer, Ashley Williams, as well as Jutta Kraus, Creative Director of Bernhard Willhelm; Stuart Vevers, Creative Director of Coach; Christopher Bailey and Katie Hillier. And whilst I didn’t attend the show this season, I am here to give you the rundown of what happened at the University of Westminster Graduate Fashion Design Show.
Kickstarting the show was Isabel Ealand: with her collection “Subverting the spectacle.” Inspired by the drama and jeopardy of Victoria circus performers, Isabel has curated a collection of striking silhouettes and carefully selected fabrics to create a story for the ages. A long, ivory jersey dress features precise, circular cutouts with dramatic inset Perspex mirror circles and hoops. The beautiful, theatrical contrast of the matt and sheen of duchesse satin is used to maximum effect. A coat features Perspex mirror hoops that move and swing. Suspended in jersey, mirror circles distort fabric to create exciting, futuristic shapes.
Olivia Stewart’s ‘It’s just clothes” collection speaks volumes to those who know just how overwhelming fashion can be. Olivia is fully aware of that. So, to reclaim her love for her craft, the Scottish designer explores her childhood joy of choosing clothes. Drawing from an eclectic mix of personal references like the iconic UGG boot, Michael Kors’ Voyager tote, a Primark camo parka, and the ever-present sequin body-con dress, Olivia reimagines these beloved staples with a playful twist. By transforming familiar garments and fabrics, she evokes a sense of nostalgic familiarity that feels both comforting and innovative. Oversized sequins strike the perfect balance between playful and chic, embodying her philosophy that ‘It’s just clothes.’ This collection is a heartfelt ode to rekindle the magic and sparkle in fashion, reminding us all of the joy in dressing up
Drawing inspiration from the warmth and charm of her late grandmother’s home, menswear designer Lydiah Holder’s “Honouring Melrose” crafts a vibrant homage to the Windrush generation with her latest collection. Channelling the spirit of the 50s and 70s, Lydiah’s designs breathe new life into classic graphic prints, reminiscent of the bold wallpapers and stylish looks captured in treasured family snapshots. The collection boasts an eclectic mix of soft velvets, textured wools, satin, and faux suede, rendered in a striking palette of camel, teal, plum, and purple. These colours and materials not only celebrate the indomitable Caribbean spirit but also highlight its profound and lasting influence on British culture. This collection is a jubilant celebration of heritage, resilience, and the timeless allure of bold, unapologetic style
In a deeply personal tribute, designer Lydia Pipili seeks to offer protection and solace to the remarkable women in her family who have braved hardships to survive in her collection “Timeline”. Inspired by her grandmother’s unwavering resilience and determination, Lydia crafts innovative silhouettes that symbolically shield the wearer from external threats, integrating structures designed to bear the weight of adversity. Using family photographs as a timeline, she references significant life stages, with cherished childhood outfits evoking moments of pure joy. Standout pieces include a ‘wedding dress’ that embodies hope and heralds a brighter future. Lydia’s collection is a heartfelt homage, weaving together strength and vulnerability, and celebrating the enduring spirit of the women who have inspired her.
Reflecting on his journey of learning, loss, and rediscovery, designer Joseph Brimicombe “The End is Never” unveils a masterfully crafted men’s ready-to-wear collection. His intricate, layered ensembles blend durable denim, drill, and jersey fabrics with bold, standout knitwear, creating a striking balance of toughness and softness. Expansive, plush scarves and blankets cocoon the wearer, adding an element of comfort. Detailed outerwear pieces showcase innovative techniques like laser-engraving and smocking, introducing dynamic textures and dimensions. Brimicombe’s collection is a testament to his evolution as a designer, merging practicality with artistic flair to redefine contemporary menswear.
In his dynamic and captivating work, designer Markos Tranakas endeavours to resurrect the lost elegance of mid-century style. His collection, “Linear Principles and Infinite Progressions,” bursts with vibrant clashes of plum, viridian, chartreuse, and marine blue, meticulously crafted into chic, uncompromising pieces. Inspired by the Constructivist, Spatialist, and Optic Art movements, Markos draws from a rich tapestry of artistic influences to shape his dramatic silhouettes using the finest Laurent Garigue wool. The bold forms echo the works of Barbara Hepworth, Naum Gabo, Victor Vasarely, and the sliced canvases of Lucio Fontana, culminating in a collection that is both a stunning visual statement and a homage to avant-garde artistry.
Inspired by Pawel Jaszczuk’s evocative photos of dishevelled Tokyo salarymen, designer Rachael Tyler presents a playful menswear collection that challenges traditional business attire, aptly titled “Salary Men.” Rachael subverts expectations by using unexpected fabrics to soften the sharp silhouette of conventional office wear. Embracing the charm of imperfection, she highlights the skewed necktie of an English schoolboy, adorned with a classic crest, celebrating its casual disarray. Formal shapes, featuring exaggerated 1980s-inspired shoulders, are juxtaposed with the softness of undergarments. Delving into ‘what lies beneath,’ Rachael daringly exposes underwear, vests, and sock garters, elements typically kept hidden, creating a collection that is as bold as it is whimsical.
Jessica Parry’s experimental statement pieces flirt boldly with volume and movement, blending her personal sporty style with event-worthy drama, hence the fitting collection title, “Outdoor Couture”. This modern mash-up results in a vibrant and creative clash that stands out. Unconventional materials like waterproof nylon and functional rip-stop are transformed into bold, bright block-colour dresses that celebrate and enhance movement. By combining couture draping techniques with sportswear fabrics, Jessica creates exciting and surprising silhouettes that defy expectations. Taking the party outdoors, she infuses fashion with a fresh, irreverent spirit, redefining the boundaries of style and functionality.
Unique, playful, and inventive, Blythe Brun’s womenswear collection, “The Mechanic’s Day Off,” draws inspiration from her unusual passion for classic cars of the 60s and 70s. Immersed in the atmosphere of a mechanic’s workshop, Blythe’s creativity is ignited by the endless moving parts, abstract shapes, seals, and wires of a functional engine. She crafts a fun, surreal world where womenswear silhouettes echo period mechanic’s boiler suits, spark plugs, and car chassis. Striking prints feature vintage promotional booklets for Fiat and images of racing legends. Real, discarded car parts like headlights, alongside dyed and patched 50-year-old leatherette from car seats, are ingeniously incorporated throughout the collection, blending automotive nostalgia with high fashion.
In a dazzling and daring spectacle, Paolo Iacobucci’s latest menswear collection is a love letter to Italy wrapped in a burst of irreverent joy. The collection gleefully deconstructs Italian clichés, turning them into high fashion masterpieces. Envisioned through a kaleidoscope of inspirations—imagine pasta twirling, Mafioso allure, leisurely wine afternoons in Positano, vibrant cycling jerseys, and the warm embrace of Nonna’s house—this line is an eclectic feast for the eyes. Paolo’s exuberant use of colour and print is a vivacious statement, with hand-drawn crayon illustrations adding a whimsical touch. The collection’s highlights include a playful ‘spaghetti’ jacket and a sensational red satin ‘Italian Stallion’ shirt, adorned with appliqued 3D roses that pop with passion. Every piece is a cheeky yet sophisticated nod to Italy’s rich cultural tapestry, making this collection a riotous celebration of sartorial creativity. Paolo Iacobucci has truly outdone himself, crafting a collection that is as bright as it is bold, and as fun as it is fashion-forward.
Reece Sheikh redefines the historic “Damsel in Distress” trope with her inventive and romantic womenswear collection, “Armoured Damsel.” Drawing inspiration from the evocative Romantic era paintings and John Keats’ haunting poem “La Belle Dame sans Merci,” Reece crafts a line that exudes empowerment and intrigue. The collection features complex, exciting looks in soft, shadowy neutrals, creating a mesmerising interplay of restriction and release through masterful silhouettes that incorporate strapping, padding, and encasement. With a gothic allure, Reece’s designs are a rich tapestry of layered textures that showcase his impressive handcraft skills. Purposefully frayed and pieced-together surfaces, metallic glazes, intricate leatherwork, and clever padded protective elements evoke a darkly enchanting bygone era. Each piece is a testament to artful design and poetic sophistication, making “Armoured Damsel” a captivating ode to the strength and elegance of women. Reece Sheikh has created a collection that is both a romantic homage and a modern masterpiece.
Mila Nikcevic’s “Belgrade Boys” menswear collection is a charming tribute, brimming with affection and humour, to the quirky styles of the early ’90s in the former Yugoslavia. In an era of profound societal change, branded goods were scarce but immensely coveted, becoming potent symbols of success. Menswear of the time, heavily influenced by sportswear, was eclectic, individualistic, and often exhibitionist. Mila masterfully blends these nostalgic references with cherished memories of her father’s family, weaving pixelated imagery that evokes the decorative tiles of historic church buildings. The collection sees macho posturing meet playful campness, blending toughness with an endearing cuteness. Tracksuits are boldly juxtaposed with formal wear, creating a unique, colorful, and refreshingly modern direction in menswear. “Belgrade Boys” is a vivid celebration of a bygone era, reinvented through Mila Nikcevic’s innovative lens, offering a delightful fusion of past and present in men’s fashion.
Designer Stavri Grigori channels the vibrant heritage of Greek tradition and folk festivals into a sexy and inventive womenswear collection aptly titled “Past and Present.” Earthy goat-hair is artfully combined with the sheen and delicacy of lilac and pistachio Moiré satin, resulting in distinctive, modern pieces that captivate the senses.By juxtaposing historic carnival elements—such as bells and goatskin—with intricate details inspired by contemporary lingerie and corsetry, Stavri crafts a striking and memorable collection that seamlessly blends the old with the new. The “Past and Present” collection is a testament to Stavri Grigori’s ability to merge tradition with innovation, creating a fashion narrative that is both nostalgic and refreshingly modern. Each piece is a celebration of heritage, reimagined for the contemporary woman with a keen eye for timeless elegance.
Inspired by the monochrome photographs and cinematic allure of 1950s Italy, especially the evocative film Ladri di Biciclette (Bicycle Thieves, which also lends its name to the collection), Soraya Behzadi crafts a luxurious and beautiful menswear collection. This strikingly elegant tribute is characterised by dynamic draping and meticulous attention to detail. Paying homage to the impeccable staples of Italian tailoring, Soraya adds her own unmistakable, playful twist. Subtle, modern layering elevates and softens the sharp silhouettes of 50s tailoring, resulting in a sophisticated and accomplished debut. The collection seamlessly blends classic elegance with contemporary flair, showcasing Soraya Behzadi’s ability to reimagine vintage inspiration through a modern lens. “Bicycle Thieves” is a captivating testament to timeless style, redefined for the modern gentleman.
Konthorn Wutthiwongangkhana’s menswear collection, “Memories of Place. A Biography,” is a masterful ode to creative pattern cutting, tailoring, and leatherwork. High-contrast colour pieces boldly stand alongside stark black and white, influenced by the evocative photography of Daido Moriyama. Drawing inspiration from personal memories, a rich East-West life experience, and invaluable time spent interning at JW Anderson, Konthorn’s designs are as versatile as they are striking. Clever, adaptable, and functional details offer numerous styling options, while a relentless focus on perfecting proportion and fit underscores the designer’s process, maintaining an uncompromising standard of finish. This collection is a testament to Konthorn Wutthiwongangkhana’s passion and precision, seamlessly blending personal history with cutting-edge fashion to create pieces that are as innovative as they are timeless.
Milla Hanney’s Milla Hanney’s dramatic womenswear collection, “The Lost Toys,” draws inspiration from the faded beauty of cherished childhood toys and the comforting embrace of home. Tattered and worn teddy bears infuse her pieces with rich, textural, hand-crafted surfaces, while discarded bears are repurposed to hand-print abstract, shadowy shapes.Nostalgic book illustrations, childhood dreams, and an adult’s obsession with collecting toy cars give the collection a surreal, playful edge. Soft, romantic, and complex silhouettes are artfully contrasted with mischievous accessories crafted from the vibrant primary metallics of toy cars, creating a whimsical yet sophisticated fashion statement. Milla Hanney masterfully blends nostalgia with modernity, crafting a collection that is both heartwarming and avant-garde, making “The Lost Toys” a delightful exploration of memory and imagination.
Tom Rowe‘s imaginative and light-hearted “Beside the Seaside” collection, a refreshing breath of seaside air inspired by 70s family holiday photographs on the Isle of Wight and personal memories. Drawing from a myriad of references, the collection intricately weaves in details from piers, fairground architecture, unpredictable weather, and the charming ritual of changing clothes in beach huts. Twisted pieces mirror the whims of the British climate, while memories of lugging too much to the beach inspired the creation of a unique ‘smock’ featuring backpack details. Standout jeans, reimagined from old garments, echo the spiral delight of a beloved ‘Helter-Skelter’ ride, capturing the essence of nostalgic summer fun. With each piece, Tom masterfully blends nostalgia and innovation, crafting a collection that embodies the playful spirit and timeless charm of seaside holidays. “Beside the Seaside” is a joyful celebration of carefree days, where fashion meets fond memories in a delightful dance of creativity and whimsy.
Tak Fung’s menswear collection, “Night Shift,” is a tour-de-force of clever and creative design, richly infused with references to his Hong Kong roots. Each meticulously crafted look showcases the high standards and impeccable finish honed during his influential internship at Givenchy in Paris. Tak’s inventive experimentation redefines traditional menswear silhouettes, pushing them into exciting new territory. By imaginatively playing with volume and detail, the designer draws inspiration from the architecture of Hong Kong, subtly honouring his father’s job as a bus driver. Red light sequins, bus seat covers, and satin inserts are just a few elements that contribute to this accomplished and impressive debut. “Night Shift” is a bold statement in modern menswear, blending innovation and heritage with striking creativity. Tak Fung masterfully crafts a collection that is as dynamic as it is thoughtful, marking a powerful entry into the fashion world.
Jamina Ziebart’’s ““Feeling and Flow” collection is a mesmerising ode to the pioneering women of the early 20th century who revolutionised dance, art, and performance, inspired by the book Feminine Futures – Performance, Dance, War, Politics, and Eroticism. Her pieces exude effortless grace, beautifully draped in viscose crepe and complemented by colours inspired by Swiss artist and dancer Sophie Henriette Gertrud Tauber-Arp. Despite their seemingly effortless appearance, Jamina’s designs are technically challenging, showcasing a finely tuned balancing act of weight and volume. Using her own body as a mannequin, Jamina’s instinctive style emphasises the visceral ‘feeling’ of each piece, making her work both singular and deeply intuitive. “Feeling and Flow” is a celebration of feminine strength and fluidity, capturing the essence of movement and emotion in every meticulously crafted garment.
The life of ‘Little Edie’ and her dilapidated mansion, Grey Gardens, in East Hampton NY, was the catalyst for designer Jessica Storey’s distinctive collection entitled “I Only Mark the Hours That Shine.” Referencing 60s fashion and exploring the processes of decay, mutation and re-use, she reanimates a grand life fallen on hard times. Using a mix of both modern and hand-craft techniques: embroidery, hand casting, 3D printing and laser-cutting techniques she creates an exciting interplay between past and present.
A lifelong fascination with the natural world inspires Theo Ike’s unique approach to his craft. Speculating on possible future climate scenarios, referencing diverse research including physical geography, natural hazards, dinosaur remains and biblical plague events in his collection “Open World Sewing”. Merging style with science, the designer has an open mind to his future, creating clothes that commemorate life events and tell hidden stories as they are lived.
Inspired by radical change in the1920s and the forbidden love of a woman for another, Polly Chen creates a striking, expressive collection named “The Lover’s Eye.” Silhouettes conceal the body, to reflect the women hiding their feelings from a hostile world. Elsewhere, unique hand-painted, printed and hand-cut fabrics are fashioned into extravagant and dramatic looks. Eclectic and sometimes surreal references include Lover’s Eye emblem, the curves of the NY Chrysler Building, and the intriguing, beautiful work of contemporary painter Fatima Ronquillo.
Overall, I think it’s safe to say that the future of fashion is in some solid hands of some very creative individuals, with the University of Westminster continuing to be a pioneer for innovation, sustainability and designers from all over the global.