With the mainstream fashion network expanding globally the FJU Talent platform are opening London’s eyes to the skill of Taiwanese designers. Sponsored by the Department for Textiles and Clothing Fu Jen Catholic University, a leading fashion design and textile educational institution based in Taiwan. Each year FJU supports the talented alumni launching them onto the global fashion scene with the chosen four presented during London Fashion Week. This year the devoted four presented at the Fashion Week hot spot fashion scouts, protein studios.
The four designers included Chi Li, with their ‘Power of Transformation’ collection, Shun An Chen with ‘black sheep’, Din presenting ‘Magic Momo please help me!’ and Chi An Lee with collection ‘addicted to mountains’.
When the divine general meets the magical girls, based in Taiwanese mythology Designer Chi Li certainly made a statement opening the show. This dream like collection enchanted the audience, with structured yet doll like looks combining this idea of the powerful divine general and feminine magical girls. In the mythology the magical girls hope to make a transformation to a goddess, Chi Li explains. The multiple whimsical patterns layered together created a three-dimensional piece. Shaped corsets, masculine lines and oversized skirts provided a powerful look. Yet, paired with sleeve like gloves, frills and doll like bows and bonnets, made for a softer look. Finished with bold high knee boots added to the idea of the powerful divine general. Yet using a pastel colour pallet created a more feminine overall appearance. Designer Chi Li describes the collection as “fun and romantic to create a new generation of goddesses.” It is clear that Chi Li’s imagination is vast and candyfloss coloured and we look forward to the next fairytale.
Shun An Chen’s ‘Black Sheep’ collection asks us to step away from the chaos and uncertainty of this era and be our one true self, yet does this self-transformation don us the ‘black sheep’? Chains and studs delicately cover the body paired with ripped black and sliver fabrics. These sliver threads and chains certainly reflect inspiration of traditional war armer asking is Chen’s work is protecting its wearer from daily life. Chrisp whites paired with fabricated ram horns speaks to this idea of the ‘sheep’, creating a strong look. This hint at tradition has been carefully moulded into something modern and unique.
Drifting into the colourful imagination of Din, her bubbly demeanour is infectious and its certainly shown in her work. “Magical, happy and happy” Din expresses as the three words to describe the collection, and I would agree. This larger-than-life collection is inspired by Dins childhood fairytale she created where the ‘dark lord’ plunges the world into darkness. ‘Magic Momo’ is the alien to save the day. The 10 outfits presented walk in pairs one side the darkness and the other, happiness to save the darkness. The character like models walked either slow and sad or happy and bouncing around. The colour filled collection was created by Dins love for crochet, which as she explains is also a traditional technique. To create the textile Din explains “I mix the yarns together by myself and I use crochet because its more tangible.” It is clear Din is not only creating something marvellous to look at, but is also considering the sustainable aspect. This child like collection is fun and captivating with Din explaining she wants it to be worn by “anyone who wants to wear it.”
For Chi An Lee the textile is their canvas, mountain ranges and green grass landscapes are depicted across the garments, with your eyes almost getting lost. Inspiration for Chi An Lee is taken from traditional Chinese ink paintings and knitted yarn loops are used as the main textile to bring the canvas to life. Using this allows designer Chi An Lee to explore the Dooist philosophy of the interdependence between ‘being’ and ‘non-being’. There is an interesting connection here between the canvas and the wearer and a living being wearing the garment.
It was a pleasure to watch this show, each collection has been thoroughly researched with strong personal inspirational sources. Sustainability has also been considered here, particularly using traditional Taiwanese techniques. With FJU talents continuing to show the talent of Taiwan we look forward to the future of Taiwanese designers as they hold something truly special and unique.